Strut Adjustment Procedure

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1. Set strut in vertical position
2. Turn top adjustable 3/8" hex nut clockwise until nut stops.
3. Turn top adjustable nut counter-clockwise 3 turns.
4. If double adjustable, turn lower bump adjuster hex knob fully clockwise. Then turn out counter-clockwise 10 clicks.*
5. Stroke strut 5 or 6 times to prime the valving and avoid cavitation (After laying horizontal the fluid is displaced).
6. Turn top adjustable nut fully clockwise until nut stops again. At that position the strut shock is at it's full firm rebound (extension) position.
7. Turn lower bump adjuster hex knob clockwise until it stops to bring it back to the full firm (compression) position.
8. The strut is at it's softest position on extension when the top adjustable nut is turned 3 1/4 turns counterclockwise. O-ring damage could occur if turned any more than 3 1/4 turns.
9. The strut is at it's softest on the bump (compression) when the adjuster hex knob is turned counter-clockwise until it stops.**

Baseline Setting for Struts

1. As a starting point, you need to find what setting it takes to pull the front tires off the ground for a given tune.
2. When more power is put to the chassis, the front end will want to rise more and front suspension will have to be tighter. Adjust extension by 1/2 flat to 1 flat tighter.
3. Heavier front weight percentages and higher gear ratios, (lower numerically) will want a looser front end. Adjust extension looser 1 flat.
4. 1/2 flat adjustments are best when extension is in 0-6 flats range.**

   The following adjustments are based with all flats or clicks starting from a full tight adjustment (clockwise) position.

Strut Baseline Settings

*If trying to delay return of front weight transfer start at 6 clicks from full tight. 6 or 7 clicks is also a good tight adjustment to use for a car that wheelstands violently and may help save your headers.